Prince Rupert Bay (Portsmouth) – Fort Shirley and Indian River

Portsmouth is a popular anchorage for tall ships

Enough of hanging around the anchorage. It is time to do what Dominica is famous for…

FORT SHIRLEY AND THE CABRITS GARRISON, CABRITS NATIONAL PARK

The twin hills of the Cabrits headland dominates the north-western end of Prince Rupert Bay. Fort Shirley sits a top this headland guarding the town of Portsmouth.

The trailhead starts just west of the anchorages beach.

It leads through the wooded hills to many ruins.

The ruins of the Troops Barricks — The ruins of the Troops Barracks

Construction of the fort began in 1765 as the island changed hands between the French and British. With the end of hostilities the fort was finally abandoned in 1854.

The roots growing over the ruins gives a 'haunted tale' like air to the place. You expect gobblins, gouls or secret passages. — The roots growing over the ruins gives a ‘haunted fairy tale’ air to the place.
You expect goblins, ghouls or secret passages

Although the forest is filled with wildlife, Dominica is perfectly safe for dogs.

We saw many birds, lizards, snakes and spiders, but none are poisonous on Dominica.

The wild life moves fast around here. This hermit crab moved slow enough for the humans to get a picture — The wild life moves fast around here.
This hermit crab moved slow enough for the humans to get a picture

Not dangerous to humans, the Sandbox tree try to avoid predation by growing spikes on its stem. This seems to deter the vines that seem to smother all the rest of the tree species. — Not dangerous to humans, the Sandbox tree tries to avoid predation by growing spikes on its stem. This seems to deter the vines that seem to smother all the rest of the tree species.

Hugh vines that smother trees trying to get to sunlight in the forest

These vines may damage trees, but they make great hats. Silly humans! — These vines may damage trees, but they make great hats. Robinson Crusoe watch out, you got competition!

Our hike led us through to a nice view of the North of the island

Then it was back to the south side of the headland where the fort has a commanding view over Prince Rupert Bay — Then it was back to the south side of the headland where the restored Fort Shirley has a commanding view over Prince Rupert Bay

The fort has a clear view of approaching and leaving ships

This section has been restored and with a small museum. — This restored section also has a small museum.

The best views over the bay are in the evening, but do not leave it too late as the museum closes at 4pm.

The tall ships in the anchorage are beautifully lit up at night. It is just difficult to get a clear picture, as both of you are rolling around on anchor. — The tall ships are beautifully lit up at night. It is just difficult to get a clear picture, as both of you are rolling around on anchor. But we tried?

If you are not confident heading off into the forest on your own, there are many ‘very reasonably costing’ guides in the area. If you are on a sailing yacht, your best information resource is the ‘boat boys’.

Portsmouth Association of Yacht Security (PAYS) is the ‘boat boy’ organisation here. They greet all incoming yachts. They work together to get all boats anchored safely in sand or tied to one of their maintained anchor balls. They maintain security in the anchorage and on the many dingy docks. They also pick up rubbish and offer the yachts advice. The Sunday BBQ they offer helps to pay for these services although they are not averse to tips or being invited aboard for a friendly drink.

Picking one ‘boat boy’ to meet your needs may make your life easier. We heard about Martin Carriere ‘Providence’ from another cruiser. We are very interested in learning about the plants in the Caribbean and Martin did Botany training at the University of Roseau. We emailed him in advance (carrierre@hotmail.com) and he met us on the boat for an introductory chat about the area and what we wanted out of our visit here. He told us about the many hikes we could do on our own and the tours he could offer.

INDIAN RIVER TOUR