Summer time in the Abacos and still no wind to sail.
We have used more fuel here, in the past month, then we have ever done in a year. Unfortunately diesel is very expensive in the Abacos, and we really do not want to be forced to purchase any. But it may limit the distance we can travel north when crossing over to the United States, especially if the forecast of ‘no wind’ continues.
Not a ripple of wind on the Sea of Abaco
We continue to make our way north, but under motor instead of sail.
Today we travelled about 5nm from New Plymouth, Green Turtle Cay to the gap between Crab and Manjack Cay.
The last hurricane to hit the area left a sand spit that almost joins the two cays together and created a sheltered anchorage…..Not that we need shelter in these winds. There are two wrecks, just off the shoreline, that are a wonderful snorkel. We anchored, just off shore, half way between them and did our usual snorkel anchor check and salutation to the local Great Barracuda.
Flat calm waters of the anchorage. And yes, there is a beach at the far end of me.We usually nick name our ‘boat barracudas’ Barney. Inherently lazy predators, they stake out under boats to ambush unsuspecting prey fish attracted to the shelter of the boat and the food scrapes in the dish water.
Once we were all settled, I took a siesta and the humans headed off to snorkel the wrecks.
The wrecks were easy to find as some pieces have ended up ashoreThe shallow depth and clear visibility made snorkelling funThe wrecks were not ‘spectacular’, but there was the start of coral growth and lots of fish hiding in and among the hulls
Lots of small bait fish (probably sardines) formed shimmering walls of glass
There were a few lovely sea anemones on the hull structuresWe spotted a few lion fishA few Queen Conch and loads of Helmet ConchWe also spotted a few Flying Gurnards. We had not seen one of these since The Saintes. The colour tipped ‘wings’ are extended out when the bottom feeding fish is alarmed to detour predators
And there were predators here. The humans got a shot of this Great Barracuda patrolling the place.
Half submerged in the water, the humans were able to sneak up on this Night Heron trying to fish off the shoreAll in all it was a fun snorkel for the humansAnd their friend Sarah on the boat Prospero agreed
The humans worked up an appetite snorkelling and decided to come together for a Pizza Night on Spirit of Argo and watch the sun go down.
S/V Prospero captured in the fading light
That is when ‘All Hell Broke Loose’. Dusk and the lack of wind brought on mosquitos. Then more mosquitos……then MORE!
Within moments our pleasant dinner turned into an insect infestation. The air hummed with the buzz of mosquitos and we struggled to put everything way in the mists of the on slaughter.
We all hid down below behind mosquito screens as the night air filled with the blood thirsty hordes. Now you may think I am exaggerating here, but I assure you my humans have seen there share of mosquitos and this batch was bad.
Don’t believe us? Check out the remains of the night on the deck sides.
These are just the fellows that could not be bothered to fly homeHave you ever seen anything like this?
See it is not all sunsets and sundowners here!
Of course, every ones plans were to move onto the next anchorage, hoping it would be ‘less buggy’. But, with the very shallow waters here, we needed to wait for the rising tide (if you accidentally run aground, you know that the water will be rising). But that is OK, because we had a bit more exploring to do.
The humans jumped into their kayaks with their snorkelling gear and headed off for the cut between the Cays.
The cut through the Cays is mangrove linedThe shallow waters here act as a nursery for many fish species. We saw quite a few Oceanic Triggerfish, Juvenile sharks and lots and lots of bone fish.People pay a fortune to come to the Bahamas and fish bone fish. They are said to be an incredible fight for their size. They are strictly a game fish, catch and release. The best fight is meant to be on a fly rod.
The kayaks are great transport over these shallow watersYou can sneak up on fish and wildlife. Not fast with the camera, this one was not likely to ‘get away’.It is a little more work to get a dingy through here, but nothing deters Jake and Sarah from Prospero
Once on the Atlantic side of the Cays, they all jumped in for a snorkel.
With little or no winds for weeks here in the Abacos, and no disturbances to our North, the sea is completely calm. This means that the shorelines and reefs on the Atlantic sides of the Cays are open to safely snorkel and dive. The humans are up for taking advantage of this.
They headed north up the coast and found lovely rock and coral pinnacles thriving with multitudes of schools of fish.
The yellow and black bared fish are one of the humans favourites. They have the silly name Sergeant MajorThe humans are not the ‘best’ underwater photographers and missed shots of loads of turtles they saw, but they did get a good shot of this French AnglefishThey saw some huge Nassau Groupers. Only got a photo of this smaller one.
With the shoreline open to the Atlantic, the humans were lucky enough to be visited by a Eagle RayThis graceful creature ‘flies’ effortlessly through the oceans currentsHe was not ‘too bothered’ by the humans, so they were able to dive down and get some closer shotsExcited by what they found along the shore, the humans jumped into their kayaks and headed over to the deeper outer reef. As they paddled over they saw some large reef sharks, but they quickly darted away as the kayak approached. This should have been a warning to them.
As soon as they jumped into the water they attracted two Black Tipped Reef sharksWe were told that it is their mating season and that is why we are seeing some many closer to shoreBut the ‘persistence of their curiosity’ was ‘a deterrent to our enjoyment’ of the reef out here. So the humans jumped back onto their kayaks and paddled back to the reef along the shoreline
Back to the boats, and up with the anchors, to continue north and away from the mosquitos.
2 thoughts on “Abacos, Between Crab Cay and Manjack Cay – Not all sunsets and sundowners”
Thanks for all the great pictures. Makes us think that we are along on your trip. Miss you both. Love Always Aunt Pat & Uncle Dave
That is why I spend the time doing the blog. I want you to come along with us.