Cuba, Cayo Cuervo – We joined the entire fishing fleet out of Cienfuegos

The Visitors Visa for one of my humans is running out. He has less than a week to renew it. The closest port you can do this at is Cienfuegos, on the mainland. So we need to make some ‘miles’ North and West. Unfortunately a storm front has moved in and the winds here in Southern Cuba have really picked up. Thankfully we are in the protected waters of the Golfo de Anna Maria and it’s multitude of cays.

When the winds started to clock and build we headed over to the protected lagoon at Cayo Algonon Grande and were joined by some small fishing vessels and two French registered sailboats flying yellow flags (not checked into the country yet). We decided, stupidly, to leave our lovely protected Cay, on the day with the strongest predicted winds, for the next Cay West, Cayo Cuervo. The humans reasoned that 16nm would pass quickly with the strong winds. What they did not consider is that the shallow waters of the Golfo de Anna Maria can produce short steep waves in a blow. Thankfully it passed quickly, even with only the foresail out, as I hate rough seas on the beam (side of the boat).

Once around to the West side of the Cay we were able to navigate through the reefs into the large protected lagoon contained within. We quickly discovered that this Cay is a favoured ‘hide out’ of most of the fishing fleet out of Cienfuegos. We counted 14 big fishing boats, with their huge nets flapping uselessly in the wind, and 3 large supply ships. It is a big lagoon and we had no problem finding a spot nestled between them all off the beach in the corner.

All the fishing boats were very friendly, waving at us as we entered and cheering us on after our ‘bumpy ride’ there. They waved lobster and fish at us, but I prefer getting the humans to find the ‘fresh’ stuff for me. As we settled into the anchorage we were surprised how ‘deftly’ the captains of these fishing vessels maneuvered them around. They all seemed to take turns lifting anchor, tying up along side a supply ship to take on stores, and then anchoring again with great precision and accuracy.

Another sailing vessel finally joined us in the lagoon well after dark. They were either very brave or very stupid to try the reef entrance in the dark. We found it hard enough in day light. That night the winds really built up. The forecast was 30 knots sustained, but I am sure many of the gust exceeded 40 knots. We do not have a wind speed measuring apparatus, but I rarely hear the rigging sing unless we are exceeding 30 knots on anchor. Everyone one of the boats in the lagoon had no troubles with the strong winds and it was so refreshing after ‘George Town’.

In the morning the humans finally took me off to explore the Cay. The winds were still blowing ‘a hooley’ but I have them trained well! There is a small beach in the north corner of the lagoon. If you leave the piles to starboard (left) and the sunken ship to port (right) you can find some good sandy holding just off this beach. There is a short sandy trail that cuts through this spit to the windward side of the Cay. Here you will find a nice swimming beach and lots of shells and coral washed ashore. Other cruisers have also set up a fire pit here. It also looks like there is some good snorkelling and foraging to be had off the reef on this side of the Cay. Sadly we do not have time to explore much more here, but recommend it to the next cruisers that come this way.

We need to keep making progress, so we are off again today to our next stop on the way to Cienfuegos, Cape Breton. This is the last Cay in the series of Cays that separate the Caribbean Sea from the Golfo de Anne Maria. Collectively this group of Cays are called the Jardines de la Reina. We had wanted to visit the beaches on their Caribbean Sea side, but have just run out of time. Most of the anchorages are also best visited in lighter winds. And we do not have light winds.

Hope they are not going to put me through 30 nm of rough seas like yesterday! The life of a sea dog.

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Photos, charts and information we added once we got some internet.  Use link below:

Review of Southern Cuba Part 1- including the pictures you missed