SAILING AROUND THE WORLD WITH SPIRIT OF ARGO

Belize, Ranguana Cay and Northeast Sapodilla Cay – Very good snorkeling and diving

Sorry I had a ‘rant’ about the speed of development our here in the southern cays of Belize.  Despite the building on land, there is still some lovely unspoilt snorkeling and diving to be had.  The designation of areas close to the cays as Marine Parks has meant that marine species can prosper unmolested.

Ranguana Cay

With the promise of a few days of light winds we left the mainland of Belize behind and headed out to the tiny cays that dot along the barrier reef.

The mountains of mainland Belize receding in the distance.
The mountains of mainland Belize receding in the distance.
We wove through the shallows of the central mangrove cays before breaking free into the deep water behind the barrier reef.
We wove through the shallows of the central mangrove cays before breaking free into the deep water behind the barrier reef.
Approaching Ranguana Cay in the distance
Approaching Ranguana Cay in the distance

In the calm winds you could not see the barrier reef itself, only the few trees that rest on the tiny cays here.

This tiny Cay is completely surrounded with  an extensive coral reef just below the surface.
This tiny Cay is completely surrounded with an extensive coral reef just below the surface.

Nice coral

Parrot fish
Parrot fish
Elkhorn coral
Elkhorn coral
Lion fish.  Indigenous to the Indian Ocean, they have prospered in the Caribbean waters since their accidental introduction.
Lion fish. Indigenous to the Indian Ocean, they have prospered in the Caribbean waters since their accidental introduction.
Smooth starlet coral.  Tell me you can see the 'Gerkins'?
Smooth starlet coral. Tell me you can see the ‘Gerkins’?
After Cuba all lobsters we find seem so small.
After Cuba all lobsters we find seem so small.
School of blue tanges.
School of blue tanges.
Nurse shark
Nurse shark

With such beauty below the water, why do you want to pay $25 Belize for use of the Cay’s beach and facilities?

Beach on Ranguana Cay
Beach on Ranguana Cay
Dock and hut on the Cay
Dock and hut on the Cay

With only a short weather window open to us we headed further south to the Sopodilla Cays.

Northeast Sopodilla Cay

We travelled inside the barrier reef, past a few more small cays, towards the end of the reef and the last few of Belize’s outer cays.

We chose this cay because it is the last one in the areas without a development on it.  It seems every cay, no mater the size, has either a development on it or at least a house someone is using to stake their claim.  Don’t believe me?  Check out these pictures of the tiny cays we passed.

Resort on this tiny cay
Resort on this tiny cay
This cay is so tiny it has only two trees, and still someone has built a house on it, claiming it as theirs.
This cay is so tiny it has only two trees, and still someone has built a house on it, claiming it as theirs.
We really had to 'feel' our way into here as our navigation softwear had no detail and our guide book tried to put us onto a reef.
We really had to ‘feel’ our way into here as our navigation softwear had no detail and our guide book tried to put us onto a reef.
Northeast Sapodilla Cay is government owned an is the last cay in the area not developed yet
Northeast Sapodilla Cay is government owned an is the last cay in the area not developed yet

All the cays here are inside a protected Marine Park, are surrounded by incredible reefs and backed by the tail end of Belize’s great barrier reef.  You will find incredible snorkeling and diving around all of them.  I just like a little beach front to have a run on.

This far south we also had the incredible mountains of Honduras as a back drop.
This far south we also had the incredible mountains of Honduras as a back drop.

Although there were no strong winds forecast for the next few days, it was still rainy season, and we had to plan our activities around breaks in the frequent rain showers.

A storm creeping up slowly behind us
A storm creeping up slowly behind us
We still managed to get diving in between the showers
We still managed to get diving in between the showers
Then we got the bad news.  A front was making faster progress than predicted.  Strong winds were set to move into the area.
Then we got the bad news. A front was making faster progress than predicted. Strong winds were set to move into the area.

Back to Placencia

We really wanted to stay and do more diving.  Our next tidal window to get over the shallow sandbar at the mouth of the Rio Dulce, Guatemala (our hurricane hole for the rainy season) is the 16th and we wanted to spend the last of the sailing season out here on the reef, not cowering for shelter on the mainland.  But Chris Barker (SSB radio weather forecaster for the Caribbean) says 35 knots sustained with gust up to 50 knots, so back to a sheltered anchorage we go.

Running back towards the mainland of Belize because the cays on the barrier reef offer very little protection.  You have seen how tiny they are!
Running back towards the mainland of Belize because the cays on the barrier reef offer very little protection. You have seen how tiny they are!

Now we could head back the way we came, but there appeared to be a shorter, and straighter route, back to Placencia.  Only one problem.  The chart clear states ‘incomplete survey’!

Of course the humans took this route.  We seemed to get approval from the dolphins.  Guess they are not used to seeing boats pass this way.

Every time we went around or over a sand bank (6-8m) we were greeted by a small pod of dolphins fishing near them
Every time we went around or over a sand bank (6-8m) we were greeted by a small pod of dolphins fishing near them

Dophin 4

Dolphins 1

We considered their appearance a good omen
We considered their appearance a good omen

The direct route paid off.  We got through safely and knocked 5 hours off our travelling time.  We were back to the sheltered anchorage of Placencia by noon.

Back to a dog friendly beach
Back to a dog friendly beach
Looks like we are going to be stuck here for a few days until this front passes through.
Looks like we are going to be stuck here for a few days until this front passes through.

At least we have captured lots of rain to make up for the broken water maker.

There always has to be a silver lining…you just have to look for it.

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