Guatemala, Cabo Tres Puntas to the Rio Dulce – The charts and pictures

I have an internet connection so I can send you pictures and a few more details of our travels so far.

We had decided to use the next high tide springs (a very large high water) to get over the ‘bar’ at the mouth of the Rio Dulce. Good thing we did!

Rain, rain followed by more rain was the forecast for the next few days but we managed to find a few sunny spells on our trip. We had checked out of Placencia, Belize for the 40 nautical mile trip south to Guatemala.

We had very little wind for the passage, so we ended up motoring most of the way.

We passed the last of Belize's inner mangrove cays as we left the last of the barrier reefs protection. — We passed the last of Belize’s inner mangrove cays as we left the last of the barrier reefs protection.

Fish and chips were put on the dinner menu. This is a Cira (note the brown dashes down it's side). These surface feeding fish are excellent eating. — Fish and chips were put on the dinner menu. This is a Cira (note the brown dashes down it’s side). These surface feeding fish are excellent eating.

Cabo Tres Puntas is a richly forested peninsula with grey volcanic beaches running the entire south coast. The best beaches in Guatemala, it is fairly undeveloped.....so far. — Cabo Tres Puntas is a richly forested peninsula with grey volcanic beaches running the entire south coast. The best beaches in Guatemala, it is fairly undeveloped…..so far….but what is that I spot in the trees?

Did you spot it? Some rich eccentric has built a house in the middle of the jungle and fitted a waterslide off their roof. Crazy!

You can anchor anywhere along the coast, and even tuck into a small bay at it's furthest south eastern point. — You can anchor anywhere along the coast, and even tuck into a small bay at it’s furthest south eastern point.

Cabo Tres Puntas is not a ‘destination’ as such. It is really just a safe anchorage for boats trying to time a crossing over the ‘bar’ at the mouth of the Rio Dulce, 11 nautical miles away. We enjoyed our stay, but I will warn you now, bring lots of bug spray to the beach….this is the jungle mate.

Next stop the Rio Dulce and the famous ‘bar’.

Rain or shine we had a ‘date’ with the ‘bar’ at 7:40am, high water springs. This meant 5:30am start. Glad we left a little early as we hit a strong counter current.

We arrived at the 'bar' at the mouth of the Rio Dulce, with the town of Livingston in sight, at exactly 7:50am. — We arrived at the ‘bar’ at the mouth of the Rio Dulce, with the town of Livingston in sight, right on time.

To call the 'shallow area' at the mouth of the Rio Dulce river a 'bar' is selling it short. It is a 'rather large' and extensive area of shallows created by sand and silt washing down from the mountains and settling where the river meets the sea — To call the ‘shallow area’ at the mouth of the Rio Dulce river a ‘bar’ is selling it short. It is a ‘rather large’ and extensive area of shallows created by sand and silt washing down from the mountains and settling where the river meets the sea

We left fully armed with:

-the most recent waypoints for the deepest passage in and around the sand bars here, from the local agent Raul,

-the predicted highest water over the bar for the month, from the internet,

-and a host of good advice from fellow cruisers, including the invaluable words ‘just don’t stop!’

AND WE RAN AGROUND ACROSS THE ENTIRE BAR

I am not joking. We lifted off, just enough to make a little headway with each wave, and we stuck aground at the bottom of each trough. We never eased off the throttle, but it was painfully slow progress rolling across the bar like an inch worm. We were followed the entire way by tow boats sure that we would give up and pay them for a tow in.

Very slowly we were getting closer and closer to town

But we made it all the way across the bar this way and to the recommended anchorage right off the rusty barge at the Texico fuel pumps.

We may have made it, but it definitely was not the easy passage that fellow cruisers had reported in the past. We followed the waypoints given to the tee. Did we get high tide wrong? Turned out we had not. We met some fellow cruisers further down the river who had crossed the day before (predicted to have 1cm less water then today) and they all had to be towed, even a catamaran got stuck (who drifted off the deepest track). Seems the first of the raining season has dumped a load of silt onto the bar.

Now that we had made it over the bar the next hurtle was the check-in. We had decided to use the organizer Raul (see previous post for details). We called him up on the radio and he sent a boat load of officials our way. It was a lot easier then we thought. They came aboard for only a few moments, checked to see if we were using Raul, and made only the most cursory examination of our paperwork.

Next stop was town to see Raul and get some local currency.

I have already told you all about the charges (see previous post), so here are a few pictures of town.

Lots of locally grown fruits and vegetables for sale

The view from town, across the mouth of the river, is very pretty. It was a rainy day.

The humans found the communal laundry area facinating — The humans found the communal laundry area fascinating

No use wasting the day, there are lots more exploring to do before the day is done

On ward we go up the Rio Dulce river! — Onward we go up the Rio Dulce river

We have lots of pictures for you of the rivers gorge, hot springs and the jungles rivers and streams…even a few videos, but we just got internet, so give us some time to get them all uploaded for you.

Stay tuned!