IT'S A DOGS LIFE
SAILING AROUND THE WORLD WITH SPIRIT OF ARGO
IT'S A DOGS LIFE
SAILING AROUND THE WORLD WITH SPIRIT OF ARGO
Guatemala

Guatemala, Rio Dulce, Tortugal Marina and the town Fronteras – We have made it to our berth for the hurricane season

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Spirit of Argo on Lake El Golfete, Rio Dulce River, Guatemala
Spirit of Argo on Lake El Golfete, Rio Dulce River, Guatemala

We had torrential rains the night before we left our lovely anchorage in the jungle at Burnt Bay.

Brown muddy waters pour into the Rio Dulce from it's many tributaries.
Brown muddy waters pour into the Rio Dulce from it’s many tributaries.
The mountains that surround Lake El Golfete are shrouded in morning mist
The mountains that surround Lake El Golfete are shrouded in morning mist

After Lake Golfete the river narrows again and we had to pick our way through large clumps of debrea, large tree limbs and logs, washed down by the storm.  There are a couple of large tributaries draining into the Rio Dulce near the mouth of Lake Golfete that create counter currents, eddies and silt bars, so we had to be careful here.

Once clear of these hazards we entered the section of the Rio Dulce known as the Marina and Hotel section.  The first marina you encounter is Catarmaran Marina (no dogs welcome).

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As you can see the marinas here are ‘relatively’ small.

Many small land owners have set out a dock and small 'hut' for rent to cruisers to earn revenue from the popularity of the area. You can also safely anchor just off many of the marinas along this stretch of river.
Many small land owners have set out a dock and small ‘hut’ for rent to cruisers to earn revenue from the popularity of the area. You can also safely anchor just off many of the marinas along this stretch of river.

All the Marinas are clustered around the section of the river serviced by the town of Fronteras.

View of Fronteras from the river
View of Fronteras from the river

Fronteras is serviced by the only bridge over the Rio Dulce.  This bridge is both  a blessing a curse for the town and surrounding area.

Bridge over Rio Dulce
Bridge over Rio Dulce

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This bridge has become the major transportation link between the docks of Puerto Barrios and Guatemala City.  Mining, cattle and other goods travel across this bridge day and night non-stop.  They made the bridge tall enough not to obstruct marine traffic, but as a result the large transport trucks must gear down and throttle up to ascend and use there loud air brakes to slow their decent on the other side.

And sound does travel well up and down the river.

Despite the noise many of the marinas, hotels and restaurants are clustered around the bridge and it’s town on the north shore.

Mar Marina. Right on the south end of the bridge to town.
Mar Marina. Right on the south end of the bridge to town.
A hotel and Restaurant right under the bridge
A hotel and Restaurant right under the bridge

We had booked ourselves into Tortugal Marina, under the bridge and just up river from the town of Fronteras.

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Med mooring is not one of the humans’ strong points.  Ok, any kind of docking is not one of the humans’ strong points, but they managed to get the boat in without hitting anything.

Here is a link to the Marina’s web site.

http://tortugal.com/

And here is a little picture tour of the place.

Spirit of Argo squeezed into it's mooring for the hurricane season
Spirit of Argo squeezed into it’s mooring for the hurricane season
The humans chose to moor bow in (usually boat moor stern to). This gives the solar panels more light and we can keep the dingy up on the davits when not in use. It does mean that they had to set up a ramp for me to get on and off the boat at the front.
The humans chose to moor bow in (usually boat moor stern to). This gives the solar panels more light and we can keep the dingy up on the davits when not in use. It does mean that they had to set up a ramp for me to get on and off the boat at the front.
The boats are all tied to docks over the mangroves. There is a covered 'communal' area just down from our boat.
The boats are all tied to docks over the mangroves. There is a covered ‘communal’ area just down from our boat.
The 'communal' area is set up with some picnic tables (great for dominos) and some hammocks to lounge on. Walk ways lead to the shower and toilet area.
The ‘communal’ area is set up with some picnic tables (great for dominos) and some hammocks to lounge on. Walk ways lead to the shower and toilet area.
The facilities are basic, but clean. Sense lights activate automatically to light the way at night and screens keep out 'creepy crawlies'.
The facilities are basic, but clean. Sense lights activate automatically to light the way at night and screens keep out ‘creepy crawlies’.
View from the showers. Everything is suspended above the mangroves by walkways and platforms.
View from the showers. Everything is suspended above the mangroves by walkways and platforms.
A little further down the dock is the main marina building
A little further down the dock is the main marina building
Here you will find the restaurant area
Here you will find the restaurant area
A 'chill out' area with a book exchange
A ‘chill out’ area with a book exchange
A nice covered dock area that doubles as the 'movie night' area once a week
A nice covered dock area that doubles as the ‘movie night’ area once a week
The main building has 'posher' toilets and showers and a little 'club house' area on the second floor
The main building also has a little ‘club house’ area on the second floor
On the top level you will find a pool table and a TV room with a DVD player
On the top level you will find a pool table and a TV room with a DVD player
Attached to the main building are some 'posher' toilets and showers
Attached to the main building are some ‘posher’ toilets and showers
In front of the main building is a swimming area
In front of the main building is a swimming area
The swimming area includes a floating sun bathing and diving platform
The swimming area includes a floating sun bathing and diving platform
The marina is up river from the main town, so the water is a cleaner then down river
The marina is up river from the main town, so the water is a cleaner then down river
At the furthest end of the marina is the workshops
At the furthest end of the marina is the workshops
These are just simple covered areas for you to complete small projects off the boat
These are just simple covered areas for you to complete small projects off the boat
Just inland of the main building is a series of accommodations for visitors.
Just inland of the main building is a series of accommodations for visitors.
These seem to range from simple cabins...
These seem to range from simple cabins…
...to the more luxurious accommodations.
…to the more luxurious accommodations.
All still retain a rustic feel
All still retain a rustic feel

 

All set in well maintained gardens
All set in well maintained gardens

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If you want to stay closer to nature they even have a few cabins over the water
If you want to stay closer to nature they even have a few cabins over the water.

 

The marina has also cleared trails and walkways through the mangroves
The marina has cleared trails and walkways through the mangroves
You can follow these trails out of the well maintained gardens of the complex into the swampy jungle to explore
You can follow these trails out of the well maintained gardens of the complex into the swampy jungle to explore

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You never know what you will spot while strolling along the walkways
You never know what you will spot while strolling along the walkways
Trying to capture the wildlife on film is even more of a challenge. Green Basilisk Lizard. Nick named the Jesus lizard because they walk on water.
Trying to capture the wildlife on film is even more of a challenge.
Green Basilisk Lizard. Nick named the Jesus lizard because they walk on water.
If you get bored of the walkways your can always borrow one of the Marinas kayaks to go exploring
If you get bored of the walkways your can always borrow one of the Marinas kayaks to go exploring
The berthing comes with water, electrics and WiFi, but this is Central American, so expects things to regularly 'do down'.
The berthing comes with water, electrics and WiFi, but this is Central American, so expects things to regularly ‘do down’.
And you are surrounded by the jungle so expect insects that bite. The slow nippy yellow flies are the most irritating.
And you are surrounded by the jungle so expect insects that bite. The slow nippy yellow flies are the most irritating.
The majority of boats moored in the marina are for storage as the owners are 'back home' for the season.
The majority of boats moored in the marina are for storage as the owners are ‘back home’ for the season.
Other boats that are stored here are for sale
Other boats that are stored here are for sale
So the marina is generally quiet, far enough away from the bridge to be not too noisy and far enough away from town to have clean water for swimming. It is still close enough to town to walk in or take the dingy for supplies.
So the marina is generally quiet, far enough away from the bridge to be not too noisy and far enough away from town to have clean water for swimming. It is still close enough to town to walk in or take the dingy for supplies.
Looks like a good place to get some work done on the boat or perhaps just 'chill'.
Looks like a good place to get some work done on the boat or perhaps just ‘chill’.

NEXT:

The humans need to get into town to stock up on food and source supplies.  Wait until you see the place!

 

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