Tahauku Bay, Hiva Oa, Marquesas, French Polynesia – Port of Entry for French Polynesia

Tahauku Bay is located on the South coast of the island Hiva Oa.

All sailing vessels arriving in French Polynesia are to checked into the country with a Port Authority, a Gendarmerie, upon arrival.  ‘Legally speaking’ we were supposed to make a Port of Entry our first land fall.  Opps!

Our closest Port of Entry is the town of Atuona on the island of Hiva Oa.  SO the humans sailed over there to make us all LEGAL.

Anchoring off the town, in Autona Bay, leaves the vessel open to the swell in these shallow waters.  It also makes landing on the ‘surfing’ beach difficult.  So vessels are recommended to anchor in the fishing harbour next door in Tahauku Bay.

Only problem is the Bay is very small and very popular with cruisers.  This makes space behind the protection of the sea wall at a premium.  Stern anchors are needed as everyone is packed in like sardines.

My poor humans had no luck.  Just when they thought they had themselves settled into a spot another boat came in, with engine troubles, and caught up their stern anchor.  Then they had to move to let the boat behind them out.  It did not end there!

The humans were informed a supply ship, the Aranui 5, was due in and they needed to move again. More on that later.  SO trying to get any administrative stuff done in town was not always easy.

But finally they were free to make the half hour hike, over the hill, to the town of Atuona.  They checked themselves into French Polynesia and were able to send my pet papers to Tahiti through the officials here.  The town is very pretty.

Lots of things to see and do.  Museums, hardware store, grocery stores, fruit and veggy vans, post office, doctors and dentists.  Combined with the boat yard in the harbour, I can see why some cruisers are ‘camped’ here for a bit.

If you do not fancy the walk into town, do not worry, the locals are happy to offer you a lift.

THE ARRIVAL OF ARANUI 5

Everything on the islands here comes in by plane or supply ship.  When the supply ships are coming into the harbour all the anchored vessels are expected to move out of the way.  Announcements are made on VHF channel 16 in the morning as soon as a arrival date is confirmed.

The supply boat comes in they honk away at their horns and send a tender in first to bully any stragglers in the way out of the harbour.  Any vessels asked to move, just anchored for the day outside the break water.

In hind sight we probably should have moved outside, as the Aranui 5 is a large combination supply ship and cruise liner.  And although she was expertly manuvered into the harbour, her bow thrusters through out a lot of wake into the anchorage.

Our neighbouring boat was helplessly tossed around and their anchor ripped out.  Here is the photo shot just before they were then tossed at us.

We lost a bit of our teak toe rail, but thankfully neither vessel sustained any serious damage.  But a warning to other cruisers.

EXPLORING THE ISLAND

The humans abandon me to guard the boat and rented a car to explore the island.  Driving on the island of Hiva Oa is not for the faint of heart and you definately need 4 wheel drive.

LIPONA

Lipona is one of the best-preserved archaeological sites in French Polynesia.  Located on the Northeast end of the island, you will have to climb the volcanic spine of the island to get there.  Great views!

INFO FOR OTHER CRUISERS

Hiva Oa Yacht Services (Sandra) is a great help with everything yachties need.  She monitors VHF channel 9.  A four seater 4wd car hire is about $100/day.

The harbour has a plastic floating dock for tenders and a petrol station on the main ship dock.  There are out door showers and an area to wash clothes, but the we were advised not to drink the water.  The petrol station sells fresh baguettes every day and is pretty well stocked with most food items.

The grocery stores in town will give you a ride back to the harbour if you are doing a stock up.  The best prices for seasonal produce are with the fruit and veggy vans on the side of the road in town.

Anchoring is tight behind the breakwater in the harbour and a stern anchor is advisable.  No stern anchor is required outside the breakwater.

Check in procedure for EU passport holders is quick and easy.

You will never get over how tidy and clean French Polynesia is after the Caribbean.

THE LAND OF A THOUSAND COCKS

There seems to be a reoccuring theme of genitals going through our adventures so far in FP.  First our land fall, the Bay of Virgins, was originally called the Bay of Penises.  Named so after the pinnacles of rock that guard the valley.  Here on Hiva Oa we are surprised by the incredible number of chickens running free everywhere.  Even on the islands back roads.  The cockerels start their morning ritual of announcing their presence as early as 4am.