We found a little bit of paradise….but don’t tell anyone! This is all between us and family and friends.
DESERT IN MARQUESAS?
The high volcanic mountains of Hiva Oa force the warm moist air of the Pacific trades to rise up, cool, and dump their moisture onto their ridges. These cascade as rivers down the Southeaster slopes of the island. By the time the air descends down the Northwest slopes of the island it is dry and the landscape here has become arid grassland and shrubs. Some people call the valleys on this side of the island ‘mini Grand Canyons’ as they are cut out of the high arid plateau that dominates this end of the island in a similar fashion. But Hanamenu Bay is a little different.
A FRESH WATER SPRING
Some of that rain water up high in the mountains has found it’s way through cracks in the rocks to the base of Hanamanu Bay. On the South side of the canyon ridge a fresh water spring runs down rocks in a small waterfall. Many generations ago, the family that owns the land here, placed stones around the base of the water fall and created a wonderful natural pool.
OASIS
The spring water along with a seasonal stream make the area here a little oasis in the desert. Backed by steep rocky canyon walls, the narrow valley is filled with a prolific growth of all the usual South Pacific fruiting and flowering bushes and trees. So scenic is the bay, every member of the extended family has built their own ‘holiday’ home here. Neat rows of tidy bungalows lining a ancient stone lined pathway. One couple remains to manage the property and feed the horses kept to ride up and onto the arid plateau above.
THINGS TO DO
GO FOR A HIKE
The couple that live here and manage the property are lovely and friendly. Your usual warm Marquesan welcome includes arm loads of fresh fruit. One of the humans had brought a little hand carving tools set. It turned out the couple earn money selling their carvings to cruisers. The humans gave them the carving set as a gift for letting them run about their land and use the pool. The couple were so touched, they gave them a hand carved wood hair piece and filled both kayaks with sacks full of fruit. Make sure you stop by their solar powered bungalow to say hello before heading off on their families land.
Bring a bag. The lovely couple sent the humans off with a plastic bag on their hike as they said the valley was full of fruit and they could help themselves. A well groomed wide path runs through the ‘holiday homes’ and out into the valley. The path leads up through the original village settlement. Now abandon, the walls and terracing is clearly visible and extends well into the canyon valley. Once beyond the old village ruins the path takes the easiest route up the canyon, criss crossing the mostly dry river bed, all the way up to the arid plateau above. If you start to get lost, just look for horse droppings. My humans did not make it to the top. After two hours of hiking, exploring and fruit picking, the fresh water pool beckoned and they headed back. Still lots of fun as there is a maze of trails near the end you can get lost in too.
FRESH WATER POOL
Now this is amazing. On the Southern rock face of the canyon a spring just gushes out tones of fresh water. It cascades down a series of bounders to arrive in a beautiful natural pool. The pool was built many generations ago using rocks and the base filled with sand. The couple here keep the grounds around it well manicured. Soft grass to lie on, fruit trees for shade and flowering plants to add colour and scent. Bring all you bathing goods and a packed lunch to while away hours.
TOO GENEROUS
As we have found in the Marquesas, the couple here are too generous. While the humans hiked and bathed they had collected and filled their kayaks with bags of every kind of fruit, including a whole branch of bananas, and even a half dozen freshly laid eggs. They had been so warm and welcoming and, although I am sure all this fruit was eaten when the families took holidays, they were the only ones on the land right now and it was still an overwhelmingly generous gift.
GREAT BEACH
If you like black volcanic sand beaches, they have a great one here. I had a wonderful time racing up and down it, exploring the little river and frolicking in the gentle shelving. The humans found landing on the beach easy as there was very little surf.
VIRGIN MARY ALTAR
There is a Virgin Mary Altar perched way out on the cliff face before coming into the bay. The trail up is clearly staked and easy to follow….for those not afraid of heights and shear drops.
ANCHORAGE
One dangerous submerged rock well marked on charts and buoyed by the generous couple here. The water clarity was not great, but clear enough for us to spot manta ray feeding on the surface. You will not see your anchor, but the holding is good in deep volcanic black sand. If you have an outboard on your dingy avoid the river mouth on the North end of the beach and there is one lone rock about the middle. The area where the family keep all their tenders is perfectly safe to land. And closer to load up all the fruit they are bound to give you.
We would stay longer, but there are some stronger winds forecast and there are more bays to visit. The next bay offers a bit more protection in strong Easterles. Bye, bye little oasis!
