WHERE IS TOTEGEGIE MOTU?
The group of islands called the Gambier Archipelago are surrounded by an outer barrier reef. The northern and eastern sections of this reef rise, just high enough out of the water, to form slender islands called motu. Totegegie Motu is located on the eastern side of the barrier reef and is only a 5 nm sail from the main village of Rikitea.
The main village of Rikitea is located on the high mountainous island of Mangareva. The deep volcanic valleys have rich fertile soil for growing fruits and vegetables, but there is no flat areas large enough for an airport. Totegegie is a long flat motu and a much better choice. So they built the Archipelago’s airport here and run a public ferry service back to the village.
I used this service when I got sick and the humans flew me back to Tahiti. This time I am going to visit the motu for pleasure.
SO WHAT IS THE ANCHORAGE LIKE?
Sun, sea and sand. There is a nice sandy bowl, surrounded by a shallow reef, near the south end of the motu. We anchored here and the motu gave us good protection from easterly winds of 15-20 knots. The motu is long and narrow with sandy beaches and topped with a forest of palm, pine and yucca trees. 23 5.855 S 134 52.611 W (you can cut and paste this into google earth).
There is a long gravel road running the length of the motu, from the homestead in the south end to the airport in the north. We used this to walk to the airport from the anchorage and then picked our way back along the inside beaches back. Lots of fun for shell hunters. My favourite was the big long beach right in front of anchorage. Pure white supper soft sand perfect for a terrier to dig a ‘hole to china’ in. And lots of drift wood sticks to chase. Nice to have no ‘biting’ bugs here!
The humans were more interested in snorkeling. There is a false pass at the southern tip of the motu. A shallow break in the reef where the Pacific Ocean can enter the Archipelago. This movement of water brings nutrients in and out and promotes coral growth and a greater diversity of fish. The multitude of coral heads running deep into the lagoon were very interesting, but the humans really wanted to get out, over the reef, and into the drop off on the ocean side. Finally the wind and sea swell dropped enough for them to kayak through the surf and get out into the coral canons on the ocean side. Here they were pleased to find schools of much bigger fish and their curious predators, white tip and grey reef sharks. To their pleasure they were also able to swim with a lovely big eagle ray as well.
WHAT NEXT?
We all want to use the good weather and settled winds to visit more islands and motu here in the Gambier Archipelago. Thinking we might sail south and visit the tiny motu down there?
