Fakarava, Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia – Lots of fun above and below the water

WE ARE STILL SAILING AROUND THE TUAMOTU ATOLLS OF FRENCH POLYNESIA

The humans truely enjoyed themselves at the uninhabited atoll of Tahanea, but with food supplies, propane and fuel running low, it was time to head northwest towards some of the more populated atolls.  Next stop Fakarava.

The humans were nice enough to pick a gentle weather window for the sail to Fakarava.  We had to get some TIMINGS right.  With the chnaging tides a lot of water rushes in and out of the passes through the reefs of these atolls.  You really want to pass through them at SLACK WATER.  The top of high water or the bottom of low water before it changes.  But sailing is not like driving your car down a motor way.  You are dependant on the wind.

The distance was a little too long to get out of the pass at Tahanea and into the pass at Fakarava in daylight hours, so we decided to do an over night trip.

In fact the winds were so light we decided to use the south pass entrance of Fakarava, because it was closer.

I will not lie to you.  The south pass is a bit ‘hairy’ to get through.  You have to take the left hand fork and the coral bottom rises up to just 3 metres below the surface.  That just leaves 1 small metre between the coral and Spirit of Argos keel!

We caught the pass at slack water got into the lagoon safe and sound.  If we were late, we would have waited for the next slack water.

Fakarava is a seriously BIG atoll.  Despirate for supplies, we still had a whole days sail across the lagoon to get to the village in the north.  But, with no more tidal streams or ocean waves, it is faily easy sailing.  They even have bouyed  channels, but you still need to keep an eye out for bommies and pearl farm buoys.

Below these bouys hang metal cages full of oysters.

We made it safe and sound to the village.

No sooner did we drop the anchor than we were told that a southerly blow was coming.  The village is well protected by the ring reef in winds north through east.  Because the atoll is so BIG the ring reef to the west and south is a LONG LONG WAY away.  This means that the wind can drive chop into the anchorage and make it horrible to be anchored there.

We sailed a short distance south to an anchorage with a bit more protection from wind and waves.  That is what you have to do when you live on a boat.

We picked up one of the FREE well maintained moorings at Pakokota Yacht Services.  They also offer complimentary 300mb/daily WiFi.  Agnes was nice enough to drive one of the humans back to town to pick up some fresh food when the weekly supply ship arrived.  The humans were able to order, and organise delivery,  of a vital peice of their toilet that had broken.  Boats, parts are always breaking down or wearing out.

All stocked up, and time to waste before the parcel arrives, we sailed south to go and play!

Of course the first thing the humans did was abandon me to dive the pass.

The constant tidal changes draw in nutrients in to feed large numbers of schooling fish.

With all these schooling fish you will also have an abundance of predators.  Blacktip Reef Sharks in the shallower depths, a few Whitetip Reef Sharks, the occational Lemon Shark and lots of Grey Sharks in the deeper depths.  The humans captured some video for you.

The humans towed their dingy, on a long line, but you can also dive with the very knowledgeable and friendly crew at Tetamanu Dive Resort.  A small eco friendly opporation that let the humans tie up extra dingies, rinse off in their out door shower and sold COLD BEER .  Their porch offers the best view of the tempest that the channel becomes once the  current gets flowing.

Great diving and cold beer, my humans and their friends were in heaven.  But I was feeling sorrily neglected. So when a trip to the Pink Sands of Fakarava south was suggested, there was no way I was going to be left behind.

There are lots of fun things to do.

Fakarava is an atoll, ringed by a reef with many motu (small islands) dotted along it.  In calm weather it is fun to go out on the reef and explore the multitude of rock pools.  You never know what you will find.

Pufferfish.  Great way to deter predators, but then you are a little stuck upside down in the rock pools?

If you find lobsters washed ashore by day….you will surely find live lobsters on the reef by night.  But are you daring enough to explore in the dark?  You already know what my humans decided.

Great diving, crystal waters, abundantant sea life, weekly supply ship and good friends.  I am never going to be able to drag the humans away.