Here we are, anchored off a stunning South Pacific island. You would think we were miles away from problems in the rest of the world, but no. International travel and supply lines mean NO WHERE is truly isolated any more. So along comes the Cordid-19 pandemic to paradise.
We were in Tahiti, the admistrative capital island of French Polynesian, when the spread of the Corvid-19 virus became a serious concern for many countries. Frightful images of overwhelmed hospitals shocked us all.
It was not surprising, once a few cases made it into the country, French Polynesian closed it’s borders and stopped all non-essential inter island travel.
Lock down!
Silence!
The boring facts – You are welcome to skip this section
QUARANTINE IN FRENCH POLYNESIA
French Polynesian followed many other countries in closing their boarders and imposing Quarantine restrictions. Being a nation of islands they aimed at eradicating the virus and protect their vunerable population and limited medical capability.
All, but essential services were closed. All but essential travel was prohibited. Public spaces closed, nightly curfew and a ban on all alcohol sales. No water sports allowed, people were told to stay in their homes and no socialising. Basically, a complete stop to the islands culture.
The first few cases showing symptoms, and testing positive, had flown into the country at Tahiti. All flights were stopped. Those testing positive were put in isolation, along with known contacts. Everyone waited breathlessly to see if anyone else would get sick. How far had the virus spread?
In the end 60 people tested positive for the virus. One was hospitalized for a spell, but in the end they all recovered. French Polynesian was declared VIRUS FREE and all the quarantine restrictions were lifted.
But now what is the future for a nation who’s economy is dependent on tourism?
More boring facts!
WHAT ABOUT CRUISERS?
Boaters were ‘locked down’ with the locals during the quarantine period. They were spread over a great distance as the countries 100s of islands and atolls are spread over an area larger than the whole of Europe.
As the quarantine progressed, and it became more and more apparent that sick individuals were only cropping up in the Tahiti area, some islands unofficially relax some regulations. Other islands were much stricter.
A mate in the Tuamotus had to wear a face mask and have a police escort to come ashore.
Even with the maritime boarders closed, boats were still arriving into the country. The Pacific crossing is a long one.
Some cruisers left long before the boarders closed, others hoped things would change before they got there. Either way, with all other Pacific nations also closed, French Polynesia felt they had to accept their arrivals.
New boats headed into ports of entry and found themselves in a country under quarantine. After their mandatory 14 days of isolation they were allowed to reprovision and told to sail direct to Tahiti to check into the country with officials there. But, most cruisers were resistant. They hoped if they stayed where they were things would reopen for ‘normal business’ soon. The main harbours were filling up fast and officials did not know what to do.
It was a big relief for everyone when quarantine restrictions were lifted. Boats caught in anchorges off the ‘strict’ islands were finely free to move about or sail away. Cruisers staying in the country were free to continue their adventures and those hoping to leave could plan their departures.
The international boarders are still closed, so the newly arrived boats are the only ones quarantine regulations still apply to. They are ALL supposed to sail directly to Tahiti and check in.
Enough of the boring stuff. I know you just want to know what it was like for me and the humans.
QUARANTINED ABOARD SPIRIT OF ARGO
I would like to say the PANDEMIC changed life aboard Spirit of Argo, but I am embarrassed to say, it really didn’t. The humans just kept on working on the boat while I kept up my nap schedule.
Servicing turning blocks
Oh, the humans did whine a bit about running out of beer when they put the alcohol ban into effect. But they could get most things they needed during quarantine including plenty of local fruits and veg.
As quarantine restrictions eased, my humans were first in the temporary drive thurs set up for beer and wine sales. Luckily bikes are classed as vehicles.
I was only going ashore to run in the park or swim off the beach. When the quarantine kicked in, they closed these, so I had to run around the local Marina property or swim off the boat instead.
Now that most of the boat projects are done, the cupboards are full of food inter island travel has resumed. Pretty good timing. We hope to get a weather window soon to head east and continue our adventures in the Tuamotus.
We hope you and your loved ones stay healthy and safe.
The anchorage we quarantined during the viral out break in French Polynesia
Paper map of where boats can anchor ‘officially’ in the area. You can see where the airport is. They were hoping to clear out the boats anchored in the area labelled ‘VA’, just north of Marina Taina, but with all boats told to STAY PUT that did not happen. Guest where we were anchored.
The barrier reef surrounding the island of Tahiti offers wonderful protection for the anchorage, but it is also a danger to boats that founder.
Just before the lock down a boat did run aground travelling too closely to the outside of the reef.
Fortunately they were able to get the boat off the reef with very little structural damage.
Also, just before shut down, the humans got a parcel onto the supply ship heading to the Gambier Islands.
Packing up parts for a mate anchored down in the Gambier Islands. All their supplies are shipped in from Tahiti via ships.
Down the docks trying to get the box on the right boat.
With some countries starting to impose quarantine restrictions the humans worked like mad to finish off jobs. Edd, from s/v Clair de Lune, was instrumental in getting the outboard up and running again. Just a loose attatchment.
They needed that to get ferry the new batteries aboard.
The humans managed to get our new batteries shipped in by sea from the USA. The old Lifelines were at the end of their life span. Only one problem. The new Firefly batteries were 1cm bigger. Guess who could fit in the battery box to execute some alterations?
In the end the humans MADE THEM fit.
One last job before quarantine. With all the work the humans did on the windlass, some new anchor chain was in order. But most people pull into a Marina to do this. Not my humans.
They managed to find a new home, recycling, for the old rusty chain. Who said anchoring is free!
Quarantine restrictions in place may have effected going ashore, but work for my humans did not stop.
New burner soldered into old Shipmate stove.
Built new base for the old Groco toilet.
The freezer sprung a leak, so the humans had to sort that out. Of course most jobs on the boat are in the MOST INACCESSIBLE locations. Guess where the pipes and compressor is?
It is a Keel cooled system, so the cooling plates are best placed as low down on the outside of the boat as possible and in the shade. The engine room is right above the lowest point in the boat.
The humans may have been restricted to only essential travel ashore.
I was not under the same restrictions. So I made them paddle me ashore and wit in the kayak. Good little slaves!
When the humans did go ashore they had to carry a printed off information form of their intentions and carry id. Face masks were recommended and even became fashion statement.
One of my humans even had a birthday during quarantine.
But NOW with quarantine restrictions lifted we are free again.
They humans headed into the main city for the last supplies. Only a 15 minute dingy ride.
All the empty cruise ships, that normally ply the waters here, are locked down in port.
With international flights still suspended Polynesians are STARTING to return to normal business.
People are still a little nervous and some still wearing face masks.
With no tourists many shops are empty.
But there is one place in Papeete that is never quiet….the Central Market.
One other thing they sell in the Central Market is lunch. And you all know one of my humans ‘lives to satisfy his belly’. Guess where you will find him?
To make lunch easier to eat, you can get just about anything served inside a French baguette. Why not try a chow mein baguette?
CRAZY!
It is now time to take a long earned break from boat jobs and get back out sailing again.
I hope your quarantine ends soon too and we can all get out and live our dreams.
