TOAU is an atoll, just a short sail northeast of the popular FAKARAVA atoll, in the northern end of the TUAMOTUS ARCHIPELAGO, French Polynesia. The atoll has a pass large enough for sailing vessels on the eastern side of the encircling coral reef. The pass is best transited in calm winds or a slight incoming tide. We hugged the southern shore line at a depth of 6m and had no trouble sailing in or out. Once inside a good watch is needed on the front as the lagoon is filled with a multitude of bommies.
Once inside the lagoon there are a multitude of anchorages to explore. The best snorkeling and diving is close to the pass where nutrient rich waters mix and produce beautiful coral and a diversity of fish species.
Spirit of Argo anchored just north of the pass near an abandon pearl farm.
Exploring the shallow waters betwen the outer barrier reef and the coral motus by day. Scoping out the best places to look for lobster at night.
Storms and wind make sculptures of the coral.
Once inside the protected waters of the lagoon there is a motu anchage to suit everyones taste.
You can be all alone off your own desert island and no one to block your sun set, ….
Or you can meet up with your mates. The gang on Spirit of Argo did a little of both.
The gang of OMAHA joining SPIRIT OF ARGO on a night forage. All in good fun.
A little work has to be squeezed in with the fun. Repairs never stop aboard our boat.
All this sun and sea air is hard on the dingy. But what wonderful calm sandy place to have a swim while the humans work. Also a good place to get to those jobs on the mast. While you are up there, how about a few photos.
Notice the boat lift ashore? More on that in a minute.
Although Toau’s village was abandon, there are a few people still ‘home steading’ on a few motu. We introduced you to Gaston and Valentine, living in the north at Anse Amote, earlier. There are a couple guys trying to start a pearl and coconut farm in the south, but the rest of the motu residents are transiants, really living in Fakarava. They come to Toau to work copra on family owned land.
We were lucky enough to meet, and become mates with, two fabulous brothers.
James and Wallis said only one other boat had ever invited them aboard. How could anyone not invite these great guys for lunch?
What started as a ‘borrowing of well water and a clothes line’ outside what the humans throught was an abandon shack, quickly became a cultural exchange and good friendship.
The brothers went to school and took jobs in Tahiti. But both decided to abandon the capitol and return to family in Fakarava and a simplier happy life. They work copra full time. Two weeks in Fakarava and two weeks on family land in Toau. They get up well before dawn and use the cooler hours to do the majority of the burning and heavier work. Work stops once the mid day heat sets in. They always found time in the afternoons to entertain us with cooking and skills lessons. As Sunday is their only day of rest, Saturday evenings were the best music nights.
BBQing fish the brothers shared with Spirit of Argo.
Music well into the night.
It is all about give and take! Repairing fishing net while the brothers work.
Another couple (Natalie and Daniel) made the brothers ‘chicken coups’ to attract the local hens to lay there eggs in easy spots to collect then.
Everyone joined in to help and James and Wallis were patient instructors.
With lots of hands to help, we even went out onto the reef and tried to scare the schooling Parrot fish into our net.
Your author even got to join in that fun. Then it was time to clean the catch.
The brothers shared many of their Polynsian recipies. A hundred and one ways to use a coconut from bread and rice to meat dishes. We taught them a few British recipies and they were always ‘game’ to try even spicey foods.
My humans told the brothers that Sunday brunch was a ‘big deal’ on Spirit of Argo so the brothers decided to treat us to a Polynesian version.
Wallis, the master FIRI FIRI maker. A Polynesian style simple sugar donut made with coconut water. Yummy!
A combined feast and great company to enjoy it with in a beautiful location.
My humans are getting better with their French and even starting to ‘get’ the jokes. No missing this one by Wallis. After an exhaustive discussion on the topic of ciguatara and what fish to eat where, Wallis came out with the solution that had us all in tears of laughter.
Canned mackeral. No cigutara!
Unfortunately weather, supply ship routines and schedules meant we had to leave. Tears all round and we promised to return in the New Year.
How wonderful life can be when you have great people to share it.
